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I dropped the lca completely as per YT video, the Bilsteins on the highest setting would not let me put it back in the hole, it's too long, tried prying, got spring close but not top threaded part. 1" from hole.

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Odd, as at any setting, the total height uncompressed is the same.
 
Odd my ass, you take a shock and extended it by 1-1/2 " top setting it ain't going. The lca is preventing it from letting it line up properly.

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Uncompressed the length, it is the same. When I swapped mine, I put the top in first and then used a couple pry bars at the bottom to muscle that part in.

Edit: Actually, in all honesty, I didn’t have pry bars. I used a couple of larger crescent wrenches as pry bars.


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Odd my ass, you take a shock and extended it by 1-1/2 " top setting it ain't going. The lca is preventing it from letting it line up properly.

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I have had no issues 3 times man, it is odd.

I mean, you gave it your best, kudo's.

We all have the same truck, from 2007 and up. The shock itself is not any longer with it on it's top setting without any load. It is the same as if it were on the lowest setting. The spring extends the shock out as much as it can without any load.

Some of us are techs, some of us are assholes, some of us do mechanical stuff for a living.

I am redoing a bathroom. I already have at least7 days of me working on it, and it isn't done. I could have hired someone and it would be done, but would have cost me. And likely turned out like shit. So I am diy'ing it.

We all gotta know when to hold em, and know when to fold man.

I absolutely mean no disrespect at all. You at least did more and put more effort that those that chime in with "Paid 750 for level kit install, truck drives weird, did I get assphucked?".


To any one near me in Mi, if you are planning something, and need assistance, let me know. As long as I am not busy, and you are close, I am glad to come by to help... Maybe buy pizza lol.
 
Uncompressed the length, it is the same. When I swapped mine, I put the top in first and then used a couple pry bars at the bottom to muscle that part in.

Edit: Actually, in all honesty, I didn’t have pry bars. I used a couple of larger crescent wrenches as pry bars.


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Didn't try that, I'm old, sore and have 500.00 thankfully. I'll let the youngens put it on. Thx.

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Didn't try that, I'm old, sore and have 500.00 thankfully. I'll let the youngens put it on. Thx.

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You in Maine? I’ll do it for $300 and then you can get that alignment. Haha, no worries. I understand. I’m a bit younger. It took me a lot of trial and error and about 9 hours my first (and only) time. If I had $500 burning a hole in my pocket, I’d have hired it out. Unfortunately, my pockets have holes, and it’s not because all the money, LOL. I needed height on my last truck due to plow bottoming out. Thankfully haven’t needed to shell out on shocks again, yet.


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You people are the best, that's why love this forum. Thx.

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You’re not so bad either. If I get any say, I’ll vote to keep you around.


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You in Maine? I’ll do it for $300 and then you can get that alignment. Haha, no worries. I understand. I’m a bit younger. It took me a lot of trial and error and about 9 hours my first (and only) time. If I had $500 burning a hole in my pocket, I’d have hired it out. Unfortunately, my pockets have holes, and it’s not because all the money, LOL. I needed height on my last truck due to plow bottoming out. Thankfully haven’t needed to shell out on shocks again, yet.


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Seriously, 9 hours?


Gdamn.

I think my 2010 first tundra it was about 2.5. Lol. I think with uca's and everything, including swapping springs on my 2017 it was about 3-3.5, using a bs spring compressor, while hungover.

No knocking.

Look guys, if anyone has issues, ask. More often that not, if someone up in here is in your area, and mechanically inclined, we all like to help, and meet other peeps.
 
Seriously, 9 hours?





Gdamn.



I think my 2010 first tundra it was about 2.5. Lol. I think with uca's and everything, including swapping springs on my 2017 it was about 3-3.5, using a bs spring compressor, while hungover.



No knocking.



Look guys, if anyone has issues, ask. More often that not, if someone up in here is in your area, and mechanically inclined, we all like to help, and meet other peeps.


I guess that included dinner out, but it was a while. First major job I’d done and I’m more book smart than mechanically inclined. Working on it though! Next time I’ll be buying the pry bars. And will do the work outside on warm weather rather than a cramped garage. We’ll shoot for 6 hours then!

Thanks for the offer of future advice, though!


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While I got some shit rolling, 2010 tundra. Notorious for blowing steering rack, just bought the truck. Putting Bilstein 2-1/2 lift on front, 305-55/20 tires on it. Got 76000 mi. on it. Hopefully it has been replaced or it is good. Thoughts. Thx.

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While I got some shit rolling, 2010 tundra. Notorious for blowing steering rack, just bought the truck. Putting Bilstein 2-1/2 lift on front, 305-55/20 tires on it. Got 76000 mi. on it. Hopefully it has been replaced or it is good. Thoughts. Thx.

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You can look up service if you register with the Toyota owners website. You can see what has been done service wise.


https://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/history

I have not tried it on used, but on everything I have owned, up till a month or two after I sold/traded, it showed everything done under the vin.



My 2010 needed a rack. It had not completely failed at the time, but had the clunking/noise when turning that was a sign of the issue. I had mine warrantied.


I actually sent a link to my dealer doing the work's service manager explaining the details of how to do it without pulling the engine, as they wanted to pull it. They were happy, and I didn't have them dealing with pulling my engine fubar'ing much more stuff up... Everyone was happy. Tech got paid book. Made money. I didn't have engine removal related issues.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I am the original poster for this thread. I changed the struts last week and everything went smoothly. I used the weight of the truck to compress the springs on the install. I tried to do the swap without loosening the lower control arms but that did not work as I could not move them. Thanks for all advise!
 
So you did it the youtube way, without a compressor?
 
Sorry for responding to such an old thread - mods, feel free to remove if this is inappropriate.

I was trying this method on a 2014 Tundra SR5, and round that while jacking my LCA, the truck started lifting off my jack stands before the top strut nut would lift free of the tower plate. I was thinking that I could at least be able to rotate the upper bushing or washer when the tension was off.

I backed off at that point - I didn't want to risk loosening the upper nut if there was any chance of there being tension on the strut.

...or am I trying to compress the spring too much?

Anyone else have a similar issue? If so, how did you handle it?
 
You absolutely need to disco the sway bar, so you're on the money.

And they will fit.
In alll the cars I worked on the suspension o never had issues with the sway bar if both sides where of the ground completely decompressed plus assembled the suspension and installed and adjusted while decompressing springs always used like 3 of em though and tied them against the assembly in case one of those fuckers snapped.
 
Ignore my previous post (facepalm), Following the video, I just needed to compress the spring an inch or so before loosening the top nut.

Worked a treat. Hardest part was getting the LCA nuts loose, as well as the top nut on the struts (and shocks on the rear). Truck rides great now with the new Bilstein 4600s - a world of difference.

Oh, and about the sway bar - Was scratching my head about that, the bar end was getting in my way while installing the strut assembly. Took me a moment to realize that I should raise the other side of the truck to let the opposite wheel drop - that let the sway bar relax and gave me the extra bit of clearance.
 
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